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As a tsunami leaves the deep water of the
open ocean and travels into the shallower water near the coast, it transforms.
If you read the "How do tsunamis differ from
other water waves?" section, you discovered that a tsunami travels at a
speed that is related to the water depth - hence, as the water depth decreases,
the tsunami slows. The tsunami's energy flux, which is dependent on both its
wave speed and wave height, remains nearly constant. Consequently, as the
tsunami's speed diminishes as it travels into shallower water, its height grows.
Because of this shoaling effect, a tsunami, imperceptible at sea, may grow to be
several meters or more in height near the coast. When it finally reaches the
coast, a tsunami may appear as a rapidly rising or falling tide, a series of
breaking waves, or even a bore. |